Yosemite July 2013

After two excellent days in San Francisco we headed inland to the mountains. Being new visitors to California we did not expect either the number or demand for permits required to enjoy the outdoors. When we first started planning the vacation we quickly realized permits for Yosemite’s iconic Half Dome and Mt Whitney are pretty much gone the same day the are announced each year. Because of this we had to be more flexible in when and where we went. After regularly checking back for permits we eventually secured a 3 day wilderness permit for Yosemite and a 1 day pass for Mt. Whitney that fit in our schedule.

We arrived at the western edge of Yosemite Monday evening and picked up our permit and bear canister before finding our reserved site at Crane Flat. While we had finally made it to Yosemite we were unsure why Yosemite is so revered . The next morning we got up early, packed up, and headed into the park. Fairly quickly along the drive it became obvious why Yosemite is spoken of so highly. As the valley opened below us along the drive, we had difficulty grasping the expansive panorama. We took every numerous photo stops along the way. Our permit entry was for Glacier Point. On the way up to Glacier POint from the valley we passed two bear cubs setting out across the road. At Glacier Point parking lot we observed a large bear who in the early stages of trying to get into a parked car. Park staff quickly arrived to fire mineral oil filled paint balls at the bear as a means of deterrence.

From glacier point, we enjoyed the vista of what was to come, and went on a short hike to the top of Sentinel Dome. Sentinel Dome is known for its lone Jeffrey Pine photo captured by Ansel Adams. Unfortunately the tree had died but the iconic stump remained and the surrounding view was breathtaking. We then hiked back down into Illilouette Creek and found a solitary campsite along the creek. Later in the afternoon, we saw an impressive buck pass through our camp. After dinner, the same buck reappeared to scavenge some food that spilled over our pot. We then saw two more deer passing through the creek towards our camp. All the warnings of bears and no one mentioned deer. According to our guide book, if injured by an animal in the park, it would most likely be deer. We ended up surrounded by at least 6 of them. Eventually, with us yelling, they did leave. The first night was an amazing way to begin our time in the wilderness.

Day 1: 8.67 miles; Total ascent 1227 ft; Total descent 2083 ft

We started early Day 2 since we had since we had a long hike. Our plan was to get to Little Yosemite Valley (~8 miles), set up camp, then hike to the top of Cloud’s Rest (another 5 miles up). While we couldn’t get a permit for Half Dome, we were happy to have Cloud’s Rest as the other option. At 9,931 ft, it’s taller than Half Dome (8,839 ft), it’s quiet, and best of all you get views of Half Dome along the way and at the top. We made it to the campsite after a fairly easy hike and took a break by swimming in the beautiful and cold Merced River. The Merced River is the main river that runs through the valley . Refreshed, and lighter we were ready to climb to the top. As we got closer, we discussed the possibility of thunder and whether we would turn back. Unfortunately, we watched a National Geographic Special before we left about Yosemite’s deadliest day. Being on a granite peak in a lightning storm is not smart. Of course it begins thundering as we get a couple of miles from the top. After a short break we decided to continue up. We reached the top and it’s steps up what is described as an agoraphobics nightmare. Stepping onto the top, we see the storm all around us, including lightning on other peaks. Being that close to mother nature was exhilarating and made the experience and humbling. And we saw a marmot! We made it back to camp having managed to avoid the storm both tired and content. While LIttle Yosemite Valley campground lacked the solitary beauty of the wilderness it was hard to beat its proximity to some of the more popular destinations in the park

Day 2: 18.67 miles; Total ascent 4465 ft; Total descent 4633 ft

The next morning, being a little sore, we have a decision to make. Do we hike back ~6 miles (mostly uphill) the same direction we came, or do we hike downhill the entire way, see new sights, and pay money to get a ride back to our car? We go with the second choice, which allowed us to also tour the valley. The way down was much more crowded along the Mist Trail, but beautiful views along the way. The trail was mostly steps leading down along Nevada and Vernal falls. We got to experience what walking into a rainbow felt like. Once at the bottom, we realize the valley and the wilderness are two different places. There was civilization, museums, restaurants, stores, hotels, campgrounds, and lots of people. While walking around the valley, we visited the museum, which focuses on Native Americans that lived in Yosemite. One room featured Julia Parker, a prominent Native American basket weaver, whose work is featured around the world. She even met the Queen. After visiting the weaving artifacts room, we realize the woman dressed out in the other room playing traditional games with the kids is Julia Parker. It was exciting seeing her work displayed, then talking with her and playing with the acorns.

After lunch, ice cream, and quickly touring the museums and stores we caught the $25 tour bus that runs from the valley to Glacier Point in order to get back to our car. After just over 32 miles in 3 days sitting was nice. Our driver was informative describing some of the geology and history along the way. She also explained the red bear signs along the way indicating locations bear had been hit and killed by car that year. It was interesting to hear how the park treats bears as the true inhabitants of the park and nearly anything that the visitors (people) do that affects bears is punishable by law. Wilderness priorities. Eventually we got back to our car and met an elderly gentleman from LA that we gave a ride back down towards the valley. Hitchhiking in the park is a fairly accepted means of transportation. It was a nice meeting as he gave us some good tips on some other places in Yosemite to visit as well as Death Valley which was where we were headed.

The drive out took us back into the valley and then up 120 through the northern high elevations section of the park. It was interesting to see this portion of the park with its different features and species. The scenic pastures and pristine lakes at the higher elevations near Tioga pass (at 9942 ft the highest highway pass in the Sierra Nevadas) were phenomenal and definitely worth trying to spend more time in on a return visit. Next time will hopefully include Half Dome on into the wilderness into the northern portion of the park.

Day 3: 4.76 miles; Total ascent 157 ft; Total descent 2093 ft