Summer break 2019! In late July we decided to cash in some airline miles and headed down to Nicaragua for a little over week. The plan was to spend a few days walking around Leon and catch up with an old friend from university. Following this we headed a short ways west to the beach town of Las Peñitas. After a brief stay we drove down to San Jorge where we caught the ferry over to Ometepe in Lake Cocibolca (Lake Nicaragua). We finally ended up in Granada for two days before catching a flight home.
On planning our trip numerous people expressed their concerns due to civil unrest back in 2018. Luckily we pushed forward with our plan and could not have been happier. The lack of tourism was apparent throughout the country and depressing in that several restaurants had been shuttered or felt desolate with a lack of business. This feeling was most drastic along the beach town of Las Peñitas. This being said we found several vibrant locations in the larger cities of Leon and Granada. It hurts to admit the lack of tourism may have helped us enjoy our visit in that people went above and beyond in welcoming and accommodating us. Throughout our stay we also felt that we were actually in a foreign country and not a tourist destination. Hopefully Nicaragua can rebuild their important tourism industry and more travelers can visit this beautiful country to experience the rich natural and cultural charm.
Our stops in Leon, Ometepe, and Masaya were some of the highlights of the trip for us. Leon, with its fantastic Cathedrals and lively square provided a great introduction to the country for us. Visiting with a local friend, touring in and on the Basilica, and volcano boarding just outside the city also did not hurt. Las Peñitas had a beautiful beach and nature preserve that we thoroughly enjoyed but our visit was hampered by many closed shops and restaurants. Surfing was also a bit overwhelming in that the board we rented had a frayed leash that eventually gave way leaving Andy literally in over his head and somewhat concerned.
Ometepe was and is amazing. Spending four days on the side of one of the two volcanoes that form this island within Lake Cocibolca was a tropical paradise. Our stay at Totoco Ecolodge was thoroughly relaxing. During our visit we were able to walk around the quiet town of Balgue, 4km up (and another 4 down) to the amazing San Ramon Waterfall, swim in Ojo de Agua between the volcanoes and see Capuchin Monkies close up. While this stop was nearly perfect we wished we had rented a quad or car and not have had to rely on our friendly taxi driver Oscar to get us most places off the Totoco lodge on Volcan Maderas.
We ended our stay in Granada and enjoyed the architecture and vibrant nightlife of the city but failed to fall for the city. The number of mildly pushy street vendors and tourists enjoying the nightlife did not unfortunately line up with our interests. On the flipside we were amazed with Volcan Masaya and being able to watch lava boiling away in the center of the crater a short hundred or so meters below was breathtaking. We planned an evening visit to see the lava at night and why this place has been fittingly nicknamed the Gates of Hell. Unfortunately it began to rain at dusk and we had to leave early due to toxic steam from the rain mixing with volcanic fumes. For our last bit of excitement we received an email from the US State Department 24 hours before our departure stating we should avoid the Masaya highway due to a large procession by President Ortega and his supporters. This parade was to take place along our route to the airport at the exact time we would be travelling. Our driver Jose initially took some police lined back roads but we eventually ended driving along the parade in the opposite direction. While slightly unnerving we made it safe and on time for our departure.
In short we had a wonderful time in Nicaraugua. We were thoroughly impressed with the infrastructure and hospitality of the people. It was disturbing to see what recent political unrest has done to the country, most notably to us as visitors, how it is hurt the crucial tourism industry. Based on our all too short one week visit we highly recommend others visit this beautiful and culturally rich country.
emma jean jones 